Jump to content
Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got a new warning message today "Alternator Workshop". The accompanying physical symptom was the car trying to start but not doing so. About an hour later the car started, but the red battery symbol wouldn't go out. Now it sounds like it has a flat battery

 

Has anyone encountered this issue before - what happened next?

 

If the alternator needs replacing is it possible to do it oneself? If so how? Where is located? and where does one buy the dratted thing?

 

The vechicle is a 2000/X Ghia TDi 1.9 115

 

Any and all help appreciated!

Posted

The alternator is easy to remove and can most likely be serviced by your local car parts shop, or used to get an exchange item.

 

But first check for loose or broken wires and terminals etc.

Posted

The alternator workshop warning is when the battery voltage does not increase to the correct level in a reasonable time. But first, check your battery, as a duff battery can pull the voltage down, and this is the most likely cause. Then, using a voltmeter, check you get 14+ volts at the battery terminals, with the headlights on and the engine revving at 1500+ rpm, if not then most likely it is an alternator fault but check all wiring and plugs to the alternator and battery before you change it.

 

Personally.... I do think its the battery thats at fault...

Posted
Sounds like battery to me too. The one on my built-in-2000 but first registered in Jan 2001 TDI 115 went after less than 3 years, and others have also suffered from what I would consider to be "premature" failure; seems as if you have joined our ranks :huh:
Posted
Top-most item running off the aux drivebelt; should be fairly easy to spot...
Posted

Thank's again - I located the alternator. FYI here is what I have discovered so far.

 

I opened the fuse box with some difficulty to find that the area where the cable from the alternator with an onward connection to the battery was melted and blackened.

 

I sopke to the the garage who sucked their teeth - I could hear the tills ringing in the background!

 

Does anyone know how I can do some basic tests to check the alternator is fine (or not). I don't want to find myself being charged for replacing the alternator when it is the fuse/fuse/box/cable etc. Is it fairly simple to replace the fuse box/cable?

 

In your opinion does the damage indicate a bigger problem or is it just one of those things that happens with so much power going through the engine?

 

Last question: does the car engine need the alternator to run on once it get's going?

Posted

Sounds similar to my problem.

 

Are we talking about the fuse box to the left of the washer bottle neck ?

 

The battery feed goes forward from the top left corner.

 

On the RHS are fusable links to various components (notice that although it is all one piece of metal the thickness reduces as it reaches the terminal bolt to form a fuse).

 

The top one on the right is the Alternator feed which had blown on mine, removing the alternator from the charging system and meaning the engine could only run with whatever "juice" was in the battery. About about 5 mins on a dark rainy day.

 

The whole assy including battery lead was less than

Posted

Andrew T - thank you very much for your comprehensive reply. The damage is exactly where you say. It won't do any harm to replace it and test before thinking about doing anything else.

 

Was that done by the garage - or did you do it yourself. If you did it yourself, how did you get to places where the cable runs underneath? - it appears to be sitting in clips.

 

Did the garage tell you why it might have happened?

Posted

OK, so the main fuse to the Alternator has blown, this is an integral part of the fuse box so you need a new assy before you can do anything else.

 

You can fit a new one yourself in about 10 minutes.

 

Unbolt the 5 wires that come out of RHS of the fuse box and make a note of their positions.

 

Unplug the connector block at the bottom RHS. (it has a clip on either side and takes a bit of wiggling).

 

Unbolt the flylead on the battery post. The new assy comes with a new lead.

 

Unclip the unit from the bodywork on the LHS.

 

I seem to recall that the mounting plate does not come with the new unit and needs to be swapped over (2 nuts).

 

Refitting is the reverse etc, and this should get you running again.

 

Look at the condition of the Alternator cable at the fuse box end, if it is blackened you should think about getting it replaced. I had a garage do this because I don't have a crimping tool to fit a new terminal. Cost

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...